Victoria Beer Week review: Lift Off!

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The idea of being released into an arena of fine craft beer and fresh food is a recurring fantasy of mine, so I leaped at the opportunity to attend the seventh annual Victoria Beer Week. Opening night on Friday launched with Lift Off! at the Victoria Public Market, featuring 16 beers from local breweries, accompanied by food vendors serving appetizers.

First into my glass was Longwood Brewery’s Pinot Noir Wild Ale (5.5%) This beer really embodies its vinous title. Clean and crisp, with a dark pink hue, its flavour resembles a combination of red wine and mild ale that you may think would be off-putting, but it’s really quite nice.

Victoria Beer Week’s Lift Off! was a success (photo by Lane Chevrier/Nexus).

The Small Block Brewing Mako Gold (5%) is a golden oatmeal stout with a deep, rich, malty flavour in the body, with a tart foretaste from its Brambling Cross hops.

From Russell Brewing came the Belgian Dubbel Ale (7.5%). This is a tasty mid/strong dark beer, with a heavy taste of deep smoky caramel flavours but a crisp mouthfeel that isn’t oppressive.

By far, the star of the show for me was Howl Brewing. Their Fungus and Flowers Spring Gruit Ale (6%) is a medieval-style ale with a bright herbal and floral flavour most prominently arising from its chamomile and rose petals, and earthy tones from its reishi and chaga mushrooms. Also from Howl was my favourite beer of the night: the Gotlandsdricka (6%). This ale, with its tongue-twisting title that becomes more difficult to pronounce the more you drink, embodies brewing techniques from the Viking era, made with smoked malts, honey, juniper branches, and berries. It invoked a vision of being invited into the moss-and-mushroom-covered hut of an ancient forest spirit and gifted a flagon of homebrew. As a seasoned beer drinker, I was surprised to find a flavour that defies description.

Victoria Beer Week runs until March 14; visit victoriabeerweek.com for details.