I turned 37 in January, which, in the words of my good friend, is “chilling.” Come to usher me into my 37th year is a medical condition that has been causing me significant pain and decreased mobility. Along with feelings of grief and self-pity, I’m also feeling grateful for the wonderful things my body has allowed me to do so far.
Having experienced chronic pain in the form of migraines for the past 20 years, I’ve learned to greet pain like an old friend. “Hello, migraine. Welcome back—I missed you yesterday,” I will sometimes mutter to myself. It’s surprisingly effective at eschewing the common feelings of guilt and anxiety around chronic pain. But let us talk about a more entertaining coping mechanism: luxurious restaurants.
Every year I go out for dinner on my birthday. As someone who stalks the streets of Victoria gawking at character homes and willing the owners to invite me in (they never do), I was excited to hear that a restaurant, Janevca, was taking up residence in a recently restored Samuel McClure manor. Vancouver developer Lenny Moy has breathed new life into the Rosemead House, a Tudor-revival heritage building in Esquimalt. Originally built in 1906 as a private home and later becoming The Olde English Inn, the Rosemead House is now an opulent wood-fire restaurant and boutique hotel. The name is a combination of the founder’s three children, Janelle, Evan, and Caliee.
The property and the manor are exquisite. However, I am devastated to report that the dining experience was not the escape from reality I was looking for. The service was very strange and while one of the four dishes we ordered was great, the rest just edible.
My husband used a sports analogy to describe what might be happening at Janevca. The new owner of a sports team, eager to win, tries to buy instant success. Millions of dollars are spent purchasing the best players and coaches, but the secret sauce is not there. It takes someone who understands how each person is going to work together to create the magic we’re looking for, on the field, and in the restaurant. It’s a vibe; an imperceptible flow that only obsessively involved and intuitive visionaries can cultivate, like the seamless service one experiences at Marilena’s, the restaurant I should have kept my reservation for.
What did work at Janevca was the pork cheeks with roasted pear and pickled mustard seeds. We escaped to the lounge for dessert, which was delicious. The service here was more natural and the view of the bar is spectacular. The drink menu offers a list of 1.5-ounce cocktails for $12, along with more premium drinks.
What I thought was going to be a candidate for my reasons to live in Victoria became a review. But this is a write-up, not a write-off. I’m hopeful that Janevca is simply suffering from growing pains and will find their stride with a few laps around the track.
I still highly recommend visiting this Victoria original as there is nothing quite like it in town. Sit in the lounge, experience the property, have a cocktail or dessert, and decide for yourself.